There are a lot of naysayers when it comes to the quality of tacos in the Lower Hudson Valley. But after eating at dozens of local taco restaurants in one month, I can tell you: Westchester and Rockland are home to some seriously good tacos, you just have to know where to find them.
I love bartaco, the beachy-themed taco joint in Port Chester, as much as the next person. It’s casual, fun and there’s an upscale feel to the homey Mexican-American food. Plus, the whole place truly feels like a vacation, which is just the cinnamon on the churro.
But two new places are elevating the taco trend into the Lower Hudson Valley, introducing gringos to a world of tacos beyond Chipotle and Taco Bell. In the past few months, Halstead Ave. Taqueria opened in Harrison and The Taco Project opened in Tarrytown. Both have a similar, authentic taco-meets-hipster appeal.
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These new modern taquerias piqued my interest, and I wondered: what else is out there? So I set out to discover the best tacos in the Lower Hudson Valley. I started with recommendations made by lohud readers on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Reddit. I tasted tacos al pastor in Spring Valley, crunched hard-shells in Mount Kisco, burned my mouth on chorizo in New Rochelle and (I admit) passed on the goat meat in Yonkers. I even stumbled on a hidden taqueria — ataco speakeasy! — in the back of a Mamaroneck convenience store.
Quick background: I have blonde hair and blue eyes. And despite six years of Spanish classes, even the most basic Dora fan can pronounce Spanish better than I. I am what they call a gringo, and I’m not proud of it. Still, gringo or not, my love of tacos is sincere. While I won’t declare a clear champion, I’ve developed a must-hit list for the true taco lovers out there.
My optimal taco experience is layered and sensory. Corn tortillas need be doubled up, and so soft and warm you want to wrap yourself in them. At Mariachi Loco in White Plains, they hit the mark. They don’t crack when they bend to cradle the filling, but are supple, folding around it like a swaddle.
Fillings have to be rich and appropriately greasy, balanced with fresh ingredients that cut the fat of the meat and leave me wanting more. I loved the pork at Guadalajara in Spring Valley, where tacos are tiny but mighty, and leave very little room for any fillings beyond the no-fuss basics.
Barring add-ons, an ideal taco usually goes like this: a layer of seasoned meat (either griddled, braised or fried), peppery raw diced onions, a generous handful of fresh cilantro, radishes and a squeeze of tangy lime juice. You might see an assortment of salsas to add to taste, too, like pico de gallo (fresh chopped salsa), verde (made from tomatillos and cilantro) or roja (smoky, spicy and deep red). Always taste the salsa before adding to your taco. Heat intensities varied greatly from restaurant to restaurant.
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The greatest concentration of outstanding taquerias, not surprisingly, is in Port Chester, in the block around the Capitol Theatre. Salsa Picante, Los Gemelos, and La Picardia were my favorites. All three just nailed it, from the doubled-up warm tortillas down to the flavorful braised carnitas. And in Yonkers you absolutely should not miss Tacos el Poblano, a perpetually packed joint on Nepperhan Avenue (that also delivers), serving a tender marinated pork taco that was the best of my entire tour. A happy surprise came at Mr. Taco in New Rochelle, an unassuming spot with ice cold agua frescas and soft spicy tacos that had me sighing happily.
If you’re making a meal out of it, order a variety of three tacos and an ice cold Corona or bottle of Mexico*ke. ¡Eso es! You’ve got yourself a little slice of cielo.
Alas, there is no ‘best’ taco, though there are plenty of incredible ones. After visiting dozens of Mexican restaurants throughout the Lower Hudson Valley, these are a few of my favorites.
Grateful Dead decor hangs on the walls and the band’s music plays in the background, welcoming The Capitol Theatre crowd, but the food is more Mexico City than Haight-Ashbury. Try the tacos al pastor, a marinated, seasoned and slow-roasted pork-loaded taco that put this unassuming spot on the top of my list. I also loved the fish taco, which held a full filet of seared tilapia inside a warm double tortilla. Go: 118 Westchester Ave., Port Chester, 914-937-2003, www.taquerialapicardia.com.
In Port Chester, where you could arguably struggle to find a bad taco, Salsa Picante stands out as a hidden gem. It can be hard to find and you have to walk down stairs to reach the front door from the sidewalk, but inside the space is neat and the service charming. Tacos are served on a creatively arranged plate with several different fresh adornments and the complimentary salsa was so good — the perfect chunky, tangy combination of salty and sweet — I wanted to eat it gazpacho-style with a spoon. And I would have, except the house-made tortilla chips were sturdy and could hold plenty in each bite. Go: 110 Adee St., Port Chester, 914-481-5488, www.salsapicantemex.com.
Many consider this the king of taco restaurants in Port Chester, and if you’ve tried them, it’s hard to argue with that. Tacos are no nonsense and perfectly done, and I especially loved the chorizo: a dark, rich Mexican sausage with just the right amount of fire. The restaurant is well-suited for date night (not so much for large groups), and runs a small corn tortilla manufacturing business in-house so pick up a bag of fresh chips while you’re there. Go: 6 N. Pearl St., Port Chester 914-934-0372, www.losgemelosrestaurant.com.
A cash only spot near Iona College that seems to run a larger takeout business than eat-in. On a recent visit, the day was hot and muggy but a Styrofoam cup full of sweet horchata kept me cool. I loved the carnitas, tender and savory, not too greasy. Fair warning: the crumbly chorizo packs a lot of heat here. Go: 619 North Ave., New Rochelle, 914-632-9352, www.mistertaco.net.
The restaurant on the corner of New Main and Nepperhan has a bit of a cult following, despite only having about 4 parking spaces and seating for just as many. The lemon-marinated pork taco was the most impressive of my entire tour. I’m not being hyperbolic when I say I groaned when I ate it. Bonus: Tacos el Poblano delivers. Go: 122 Nepperhan Ave., Yonkers, 914-963-1111, www.tacoselpoblano.com.
